Sounds like what you need is a watt/hour meter, or an Amp/hour meter.[I can try and look but have never seen Wh or Ah meters, except the ones for AC home power consumption, and I don't think they sell private individuals those.] Or take frequent amp readings and integrate. [The thing is what is a reading? I have taken readings every few seconds for about a three second duration and still seem to het readings that are a little too high. In desperation what I tried to do is use the actual number of electrons that are theoretically released by a kg of iron, so, the maximum, without accounting for losses, and maybe since my math is terrible I came up with a value that is less than half than what internet sources say is the available energy from full oxidation of a kilo of iron into Fe2O3!?!?!? The internet source from Answers.com stated iron gives 7.4 megajoules, which is about 2.06 kW/h. If I can extract even 75% of this figure in my battery I beat fuel prices in many countries, the thing is I can't even get a good reading to calculate my efficiency...]Remember that for non constant current a digital meter can get confused and report an incorrect reading - I think that's how a few over-unity myths have started.[Yeah, I agree with you there.]
Also, an amp meter is (ideally) zero resistance, which means you need to connect a realistic load in series with the amp meter. [What value resistor would you recommend? And when connected in series do I take the voltage reading as well ir connect the resistor across the terminals and read the V in parallel across the resistor with my meter? BTW, another weird thing is that when I measure voltage without a load, it starts low, about 0.3V and takes many minutes to climb to over 0.9?!?!?!? But it stays there...]Otherwise you may be getting some current, but at practically zero volts, so no power. US$ 0.02 per Kw/h is indeed too good to be true! Using the spike amps reading to calculate power will give a nonsense result - far too high.[How did you get your meter to stay still at an amp reading foe the pictures on your lead acid batt page? Do you have a hold button? The thing is my amps just keep going down to zero, quite quickly. But there is an electrochemical reaction going on for sure and iron isn't inert enough to give off less than 0.1mA. I mean, it rusts readily enough when no one is paying attention but seems to hide its secrets when I bring a meter near it.]
Can I ask - have you compared the energy cost of producing iron to the energy you are getting out of it? [Of course. One of my main objectives is to prove that iron nrg is cheaper than petroleum derived fuel here. And all I lack now is a proper amp reading. I have already discovered that rusty scrap is better than pure, shiny iron (because the "bad" readings are way lower for new iron) so I use the current price of scrap metal which is US$0.48/kg. So, yes, I measure the nrg efficiancy of iron by way of the cost method.] I just need a few bleedin' amp readings! Can I use the V = IR equation to figure out current if I know V and R (which would be the resistance across the terminals???)...?
Remember: Electricity to power vehicles still needs to come from somewhere...EV's are not the solution, alt nrg is.